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Your advice . . .

  • knj
  • April 27, 2011 at 10:38 AM
  • twiz
    • May 26, 2011 at 1:41 AM
    • #21

    I think the cracks on the main body of it are good, as far as layout and spacing and such. I think they're too deep and bright though, they look very clean.

    The handles and base have a much higher density of cracks, and makes it look weird. Reduce the number of cracks on those/increase spacing, and darken up the crack color and I think you've got it nailed. Especially the base, there are lots of cracks around the midsection of it but no cracks at all on the rim - the most likely place to be cracked. Looks off.

  • -HP-
    • May 26, 2011 at 11:44 AM
    • #22

    Cracks overdone, easy mistake to make when you're starting no big deal.

  • JamesKing3d
    • May 31, 2011 at 5:04 PM
    • #23

    also, I don't know what age this pot is supposed to be represented as, but I think older pots are alot less reflective, so perhaps adjust the spec based on the ink/paint, or based on crack location.

    if it's an ancient pot that has been re-assembled, you could add a tiny sliver of specular in the middle of the cracks, as the adhesive would darken the terracotta and be glossy,

    or make the pieces more specular the farther from the cracks, as the cracked areas would probably get more damage.

    *edit, also look at how much ceramic material is lost when some-thing is re-assembled:

    [Blocked Image: http://www.ohioarchaeology.org/joomla/images/stories/figures/research2005/Redmond_Fig6.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://heritage-key.com/medialink/files/lion-relief-tell-halaf-pro-destruction-post-reconstruction.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.amarnaproject.com/images/recent_projects/material_culture/new_kingdom/8.jpg]

    (I worked for a summer @ an archeological firm, putting vases like this together sucks! heh (personal opinion, props to anyone who loves to work with this stuff. ))

  • knj
    • May 31, 2011 at 5:45 PM
    • #24

    Thanks a lot, this is vert helpful. for now i will leave this model as it is, today maybe tomorrow i will start working od LOD's

  • knj
    • June 2, 2011 at 7:42 PM
    • #25

    So, i finally found some time, and made lod's for my vase. 1.700 tris is close to player model

    [Blocked Image: http://knj-environment.com/img_test/lods.jpg]

    it took me about 3h, but my workflow was:

    1. i was working on triangulated mesh, i removed almost every edge ring, and then removed verts to get lover geometry

    2. again triangulated my model

    3. by hand tweeked some edges to get shading right

    if you got some trick, please let me know

    and what about texturing, i know that for example Unreal U. is taking care of textures, but do i need spec and normal on my lods ? i know it depends on distance, but what do you do commonly?

  • Bunglo
    • June 2, 2011 at 8:44 PM
    • #26

    Can you post a wireframe?

    What ever textures you have plugged into the material (diffuse, spec, normal, etc), said engine will downscale the textures by uses their mipmaps as the distance from you and the mesh increases. No need to setup a separate material for LODs.

  • knj
    • June 3, 2011 at 2:11 PM
    • #27

    [Blocked Image: http://knj-environment.com/img_test/lods_wire.jpg]

    sure, here it is

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