Posts by PhilipK

Nice, congrats arthut and chimeray (a bit late just )!

I guess I can be removed from Starbreeze now at least, I've been with Fatshark for a couple of months now, but only one week left there and then I'm off to the U.S. early March.

nice to see some hl1 stuff again looking cool

It's always a balance between keeping the texture style and palette similar enough, while not making them too similar and boring.

Something I seem to do quite often is to try and break down a palette early on where I have some strong base colors that I can continue to use throughout the set. That doesn't mean all other colors outside that palette are forbidden though (important )

Kickass rob! Lot's of work put down into this so very glad to see you're gonna get some $ from it too

Quote from Psy

Someone recommend some good in-ear headphones for around £50.

I'm not sure if there are any for ~£50, but I'm extremely happy with my Shure in-ear phones. I've tried a lot of other ones before and a lot of times there's only sound on one side/sputtering sound after a few months-year having the cord bent in the pocket a lot, even with more expensive types from Sennheiser, Jays, Sony, Koss etc.

I've probably spent way too much money on headphones :embarrassed:

Quote from Jetsetlemming

I decided to set out on my own and create something unique that was all mine.It's a barrel

Nice barrel, should texture it too!

Although, I think you could remove that last outer edge loop without it being noticeable.

Also, as a personal rule I try to always stick to more easily lod-friendly segments on cylinders and similar shapes. You've got 18 sides on your, that's fine if you wanna remove every other edge to lod that, however if you wanna make an even further away lod you'd end up with 5 sides and could be a problem for mapping and shading a bit. I don't know, I've just always found things to lod a lot more seamless if you stick to 16, 24, 32 segments etc.

It kind of looks like you are going pretty cartoony with this judging by the setting, but the textures suggests a more realistic approach. Nothing wrong with that, but I think it'd look more interesting if you try to bind the texture style a bit more to the look of the geometry. That said, I'd loose much of the high frequency, noisy details in the textures, push up some more saturation here and there and try to work with more low frequency, big details.

I think the biggest problem with the ship at the moment is that it looks like it's made out of one big piece of wood, instead of many smaller planks.

The seam where the water meets the sand is pretty distracting too, tat goes with the rocks and trunks of the palm trees to some extent as well. The water seam may be harder to get rid of than the other ones, but if you can't get it to have a short fade to the beach, you could probably add some foam to kind of cover the seam instead

Congrats Klein!

Awesome, congrats to you!

So when are you gonna finish up DE, you lazy fart?

Site itself looks nice imo, but I found the "hover on links to see content" was really annoying as you have to keep the pointer on the link while reading! I like to select text while I'm reading it etc. Saw that you could also press the links in the portfolio section, but in the resume only hovering the links work.

This is gonna be so good !

Gonna try and not watch too many videos of it though.

Oh, lots of jobs lately. Congrats to everyone involved

Last shot, from the cave area, looks really, really awesome! I liked the video too. Looking forward to see more from this

Damn that looks sweet! I'll try it out when I get home

Heard this yesterday. Very sad news

It seems the specular is too even I think, and the gloss is very low considering it's painted metal (of course depending on what kind of paint was used).

You could also try and add some very subtle normal detail where it's painted to try and further split up the regular metal surfaces with the painted ones.

I think you'd gain a lot by just defining edges more and playing around with varying the specular and glossiness on the different parts of metal.

Nice work with the video! I understand it must be quite the effort with the manpower you've got. You pulled it together really well. I'm impressed

everyone seems to be following this one maybe it's time to check it out...

Quote from deceiver

So I'm doing a little art test a for a Modeler position at ubisoft toronto, and was wondering what you guys thought of it so far:[Blocked Image: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4121855/crits.jpg]

So gotta bake the high poly version back there on the 400 tris model. Usually, you should have the model all on one smoothing group right? Cause of my geo though, makes lotsss of black spots and I can't really chamfer any edges as I'm pretty close to budget right now. I should probably just redistribute it evenly so I can get cleaner single smoothing group? Right now, there's different ones and hard edges on the sides.

Anyways, gonna catch a bit of sleep, been working on it for the better part of tonight.

I don't agree at all. It's very case to case based. But when I model hard surfaced stuff like this I tend to want to keep the lowpoly smoothing as close to the highpoly look as possible. Meaning using hard eges/different smoothing groups. Yes it can get more expensive vertex count wise, but IMO it's a question of visual quality a lot of times. Sometimes you can get away with a lowpoly with only one smoothing group/only soft edges and counteract that with the normal map (you would get a lot of large gradients in the normal that will counteract the convex smoothing on your lowpoly). However, depending on the engine and what kind of lighting you have the shading on your object can look absolutely horrible. And I've seen this in a lot of games... Like pillars that are supposed to look sharp and coarse, but instead end up looking like they've been at the bottom of an ocean for several hundred years

There's also another big advantage to not have too many big gradients in your normal: You can create additional lod steps a lot easier without having to always match the exact convex smoothing you have on your first lod. I've also seen this in a lot of games where the lowpoly has probably been using only one single smoothing group and then in the additional lods chamfers etc. has been removed totally changing the shading on the object resulting in very ugly lod popping

I'd pretty much keep the smoothing you've got going there on the low, except for the front side of the handle that should be smooth.

Also if you have any hard edges like you do know you need to split those in the UV to prevent the normal from bleeding over creating a seam (sorry if you know that).

As magnar said you could probably remove those smaller lines and keep those to the normal, and instead perhaps spend those polies on creating an inside that you can see through the glass (I don't know if you're allowed to have transparancy (glass) though).

Good luck with this anyhow. Your highpoly looks nice

Quote from Campaignjunkie

Great colors. I don't like how 90 degree / straight-edged the bricks and blocks are, though. They're kind of jarring when compared to the cool obelisks and tombs you have going.

Agreed, I think the new lighting looks great! I also think you could get some more out of the brick texture especially, could be enough to just add a couple of subtle brush strokes to get them a bit more unique and closer to the TF2 style. Same goes with the bare concrete. I think they lack some more low frequency details while the small details may be a bit too uniform and visible.

Looking very promising so far, I look forward to see where you'll take this