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leplubodeslapin
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Yes @blackdog, it works to cool down the headset but most importantly it forces the air to be replaced between you and the headset (which is what causes sweating on my side, it's just hot after 15 mins of usage)

Edited by leplubodeslapin
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  • 5 months later...

Hello

I just submitted a 1 fan version on my Valve index mod. It can feel like a rollback but it's actually a better version I believe :

  • 1 fan is enough to pull out the warm air, it's not that big 😛
  • It's a lot easier to make the USB plug, much more space for it
  • Added a switch to control the fan
  • Filled and the tiny holes that were making it less efficient

 

Here it is with a few pictures in case someone is interested : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4735054

vMtgQ5g.jpg

(and I also updated the 2 fans version with the holes filled too : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4565466)

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Got me a printer just not too long ago. It's amazing how good quality printer you can get nowadays for the price your paying for it. I can barely even notice the print pattern it does when I crank the print quality to max, manufacturer calls it an entry-level printer. They've gone a mile ahead since the early days.

Edited by WD
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4 hours ago, WD said:

Got me a printer just not too long ago. It's amazing how good quality printer you can get nowadays for the price your paying for it. I can barely even notice the print pattern it does when I crank the print quality to max, manufacturer calls it an entry-level printer. They've gone a mile ahead since the early days.

What printer did you get ?

I haven't looked too much into it, but I noticed some improvements on the low budget side too.

I've heard of printers like the Artillery Sidewinder X1, that are on the same budget (400€) and size (30 x 30 x 40 cm) as the Creality CR-10S I bought ~3 years ago, but with things like linear bearings, direct drive, silent motors ... It's really cool to see such progress!!

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16 hours ago, leplubodeslapin said:

What printer did you get ?

I ordered Original Prusa MINI, got the upgraded version of that since it apparently had just been launched. So a pleasant surprise there.

Took almost half a day to assemble and to calibrate correctly but once that's done it's been working perfectly.

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  • 1 month later...

Never really had a big issue with the heat but I had the printer so I thought I might as well try it! The noctua fan I got even came with some 3M scotchloks so no soldering required. I had the other parts lying around and took apart an old USB cable. The fit for the cable was quite tight and I used the smallest cable I had. I took the plastic casing off and everything. Maybe consider getting the socket @leplubodeslapin recomends on thingverse.

Some of my findings:

  • Needs a switch, shouldn't have printed the switchless version 😄 (usb doesn't depower when index goes to sleep)
  • Printed vertically on a raft, looks better and easy removal of support. Also ~2hr shorter print!
  • Feels good to wear, don't feel the heat radiating from the screens anymore. Should be great for long sessions of alyx, might replay it now.
  • The front sponge still gets wet after some beatsaber but I don't think even another fan would help with that.
  • The fan I got is audible but not as bad as the basestations.

qxu60Bh.jpg

 

5tmreVR.png

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That's amazing @jd40 thanks for printing it !! :D

 

21 hours ago, jd40 said:

Printed vertically on a raft, looks better and easy removal of support. Also ~2hr shorter print!

Yea I feel so dumb I didn't even try, of course you're right, it looks better, prints faster ... The only thing you need to be careful with is not to go to hard when screwing the 4 fans and 4 main screws, to avoid breaking the print.

 

If you have a ref/sizes for a switch and want me to update the geometry for it, feel free to ask. I didn't release the sources files because i made it with Catia (a CAD software that isn't known much outside of the industry) and had to clean some nasty topology stuff in blender afterwards, it was a bit too messy ^^'

Really good looking print, congratz :dance:

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3 hours ago, leplubodeslapin said:

The only thing you need to be careful with is not to go to hard when screwing the 4 fans and 4 main screws, to avoid breaking the print.

Broke my first print trying to take the support off - printed horizontally 😆

3 hours ago, leplubodeslapin said:

If you have a ref/sizes for a switch and want me to update the geometry for it, feel free to ask. I didn't release the sources files because i made it with Catia (a CAD software that isn't known much outside of the industry) and had to clean some nasty topology stuff in blender afterwards, it was a bit too messy ^^'

Nothing I have would quite fit under the translucent plastic cover so yeah I gotta figure something out. Do you use the plastic cover btw? Seems to block the airflow a bit.

I wonder if it's possible to turn off the index usb via software, sure would be nice if it turned on only when you put the headset on.

3 hours ago, leplubodeslapin said:

Really good looking print, congratz :dance:

Thanks for the model!

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6 minutes ago, jd40 said:

Broke my first print trying to take the support off - printed horizontally 😆

oops ^^' sorry

 

7 minutes ago, jd40 said:

Nothing I have would quite fit under the translucent plastic cover so yeah I gotta figure something out. Do you use the plastic cover btw? Seems to block the airflow a bit.

I wonder if it's possible to turn off the index usb via software, sure would be nice if it turned on only when you put the headset on.

The one i'm using is pretty standard

pFCB6d8.png

I designed it so that it stays inside the surface and doesn't prevent you from using the translucent plastic cover

oQ28yFg.png

1OdHmcO.png

 

But in the end my 3D Printer isn't calibrated very well, so the front plastic cover didn't fit really well (might work better by printing it vertically though).
I don't know if there's enough gap for the air to move in between, maybe not.

But yea there must be a way to drive the USB from software, because it's designed to be able to receive custom mods and stuff. It would mean that maybe the fan would have to be driven by a data signal and not just powered by the default 5V of a USB plug, so it becomes more complex but probably doable (I wouldn't know how though)

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